Friday, October 5, 2012

Rishikesh Part I

Shiva on the Ganges River

We have several three and four-day holidays in our school year. It's a great time to explore places that I have not yet visited. So, off we went to explore Rishikesh, the "Gateway to the Himalayas" and the "World Capital of Yoga". A short 45 minute flight north from Delhi, then an hour drive brought us to a deeply spiritual place for Hindus.

Laxman Jhule suspension bridge across the Ganges
Our little hotel was just up a dirt path from this suspension bridge leading into the heart of Rishikesh. Thousands of Hindus make pilgrimages to Rishikesh to meditate and bathe in the holy Ganges River. Unlike in Varanasi, this part of the river is quite clean, just flowing out of the mountains. River rafting is also a huge draw to this region.

If you look very closely you will see a cow or two on the bridge. They have the right of way!

Simple, clean and cheap!
This hotel was a great find. Freshly made Indian food made on request, and a yoga teacher and massage therapist came daily just for us.

Cristi and Shannon on the roof-top
French press coffee!! Now that is a treat in India. Rishikesh is a place that many westerners come to be trained as yoga and meditation teachers. There was a yoga/meditation/aruyvedic center on every corner. Nothing like at home, however. Most were holes-in-the wall with tangled electrical wires dangling and cow poop on the sidewalks.

Typical yoga "studio"
Hindu temple across the bridge
Cristi and I ventured to the temple one day. Five plus stories of shrines, each with different Hindu deities. Hundreds of different gods! Worshipers would ring a bell when entering the shrine, usually touch part of the god, or leave an offering. Cristi and I decided we really needed to do more studying about Hinduism. Very complex.

The Ganga Aarti
Our first night we joined hundreds of people for the nightly ritual called the Aarti. An aarti is a type of puja, or religious offering to a deity. Singing and lighting of lanterns begin at dusk. The ceremony is in a spirit of humility and gratitude.

Receiving a blessing of light
Meditating
Sadhu
Sadhus are everywhere in Rishikesh. In Hindu, they are considered holy men (and women) who wander in pursuit of moksha (attainment of liberation from the cycle of rebirth)). Sadhus leave behind all material and sexual attachments. They often wear ochre-colored clothing symbolizing sanyasa (renunciation). They usually live in temples, caves and forests. Many sadhus awake at the wee hours of the morning to come to the river to meditate and bathe. During the day, the sadhus were seen sleeping under trees and along alleys.

It is often challenging/impossible to distinguish between true sadhus and street beggars, or drop-out travelers. It is thought that there are 4-5 million sadhus in India and Nepal. 

Sadhus or beggars?

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