Srinigar, Kashmir

Fishermen in a shakira boat on Dal Lake

Kashmir is one of those magical places that many of my colleagues recommended. However, because of the on-going struggle between Pakistan and India to claim this territory (currently part of India), the area has been off-limits at times to tourists, especially Americans. This fall there has not been any travel warnings, so my good buddies, Kris and Rick, and I made a last minute dash to visit.

Kris on our houseboat owned by Mr. Butt of Butt's Clermont Houseboats

 During the British occupation, the Brits were not allowed to buy or own land. Instead they had local carvers of walnut and cedar wood, build these intricate and fascinating houseboats. There are over 1,200 of these boats still in use today, mostly by tourists (when they come). The "boats" do not go onto the water, but are like large trailers moored to land.

The interior of our houseboat. Pretty comfy.

Rick on the stern next to one of the amazing Kashmiri wood panels. All hand-carved.

Mr. Butt and I

Mr. Butt is the proud owner of this fleet of four houseboats. They were originally bequeathed to his father when the British left. Mr. Butt is now in his 80's and is an icon in the area. He will come and sit for hours to tell the history of Kashmir and of the local arts.

Many famous people have stayed on Mr. Butt's houseboats

Mr. Butt was so excited to share with us all the photos of famous people that have stayed or visited his houseboats. They include Nelson Rockefeller, George Harrison, Ravi Shankar, and most recently, John McCain!

Kris in the Heaven Rose

On our first evening we took a lovely boat ride paddled by a young man out to the lotus gardens. Very dreamy!

My first bouquet of lotus flowers!

Woman paddling with ducks

Sunrise from the deck

Srinigar is 80% Muslim. So it was no surprise to me to hear the "call to prayer" throughout the day and night on loudspeakers. However, I was not prepared for the two hour "sermon" starting at 4:30 a.m.!! So instead of tossing and turning, I used the time to take some early morning shots.

Morning cruise

The next morning Mr. Butt arranged for us to go with Lassa, another Dal Lake icon, to paddle us through the canals and "floating" gardens to Nigeen Lake.

The "lake" people live a simple subsistence life along the waters.

Flower seller

We were not on the lake for more than 15 minutes before this flower seller found us. We tried to explain over and over that we were only in Kashmir for a couple of days and did not want to buy flowers. So then, how about seeds? Of course we bought some! Mine...nasturtium seeds.

Boy dredging up lake plants to use for fertilizer and animal feed

 
The lakes provide a wealth of income for its people. From fish, to fertilizer, to food for animals.

Woman doing laundry

Lakeside homes

Man picking his nets for minnows to dry for the winter

Lassa explaining hydroponic farming..he is floating!

Hydroponic farming is quite an innovation. The local people compact bulrush plants, which grow along the lakes. Then they pile on dredged lake plants to create "raised beds". Melons, squash, etc. are planted seasonally on these floating gardens. The bulrush roots keep the plants watered. This patch was recently harvested of melons. It was about 20 feet long and five feet wide. The owners of the gardens move them during the winter months for protection. Ingenious!

Traveling salesman

This man spotted us in the middle of Nigeen Lake and came paddling quickly. He had three cases of lovely silver jewelry but his prices were way too high so we passed.

My next stay?

Visit to one of several Mughal Gardens

Copper bowls

Man making handle for copper bowl

Copper is used extensively for plates, bowls, cups, and water jugs. Each piece is intricately hammered with traditional designs.

Hammered copper bowl...mine!

Hand hooking a bed cover

I will never ever stop being awed by the arts and craftsmanship in India. When Mr. Butt's son heard that I was interested in textiles, he took us to the old city of Srinigar, through several alleys, up three floors to this barren, dusty,  and dark workshop of three amazing men. Here this man sat  using a needle hook to embroider this gorgeous piece with hand spun wool.

Shelves and shelves and piles and piles...

In the next room was their "storeroom" of goods to be sold in Delhi. As they revealed each piece, we quickly became overwhelmed. Kris and I could have easily spent hours digging through these traditional Kashmiri tapestries. But Rick was getting hungry...We each purchased some pillow covers and one larger bed cover. They agreed to make the backings and deliver them to us by 10:30 the next morning. Incredible India!

Embroidered bed cover

Spinning pashmina wool

The next morning we went to a lovely home where  members of a family took a particular part in creating incredible pashmina shawls. This woman was spinning the finest strands of pashmina goat wool to be used in weaving of the most precious shawls made in the world.

Embroidering with the tiniest of needles

Gorgeous but not in our budgets!

Haircut, shave or massage?

This delightful man showed up at our houseboat, just stood there, and let us read his box. So early in the morning we each got a wonderful head, shoulder and neck massage...$8!

Water lilies everywhere

It was time to head back to Delhi and to the craziness of 18,000,000 people. It is important to point out, though, that the presence of heavily armed military in Kashmir is not pleasant. Entering the airport required five intense security checks.  And, sadly, just three days ago there was another militant attack south of Srinigar...twelve people killed. I feel blessed to have had the opportunity to spend three glorious days in Srinigar. I pray for everyone trying to exist here.

Shopping in India: It's heaven for aging hippie women!

Wooden monkeys at Sharma Farms in Delhi

When I was chatting with a fellow colleague about a recent treasure hunting shopping trip, she said, "Oh yeah, India is the ultimate dream for aging hippie women!" I sure got a laugh. It is soooo true.

Friends and family back home often ask me what I do on the weekends for fun. Of course, I love exploring old ruins, visiting museums, and joining in with the local people at markets. But another very fun experience is shopping for treasures, and wow, there sure are plenty of places to search.

Old wooden horse and posts at Sharma Farm.

 

Jewelry and textiles are everywhere you look. But lately, I have been digging through some warehouse-like collections of old and new furniture, yard art, doors, etc. It's a good thing that I can't get this stuff home, or I would have a whole container full by now. As one seller told me, "Of course you can fill a container and have it shipped." Well, my teeny-tiny home back home won't hold much. It's a good thing...

Large hand-painted chest at Sharma Farm

This was something that caught my eye immediately. Nope, didn't buy it, but thinking about it. This outing I took two new teachers who needed furniture for their apartments. I enjoyed helping them choose unique but functional pieces. Love spending other people's money!

Hand-carved door at Sharma Farm.

A few of my friends have had these old doors made into dining tables covered in glass. Spectacular!

Large wooden carving of mama and baby monkey at Sharma Farm

But this is the piece that intrigued me. Now that I look at it, it is rather creepy, but I just loved it. It weighed about 50 pounds, so will have to ponder it a bit more...

Huge old lanterns

When I use the word "old" I do have to explain. Nothing can be taken out of India that is over 100 years old. It is a way to preserve their antiquities and prevent "tomb robbing". So even these lanterns are probably only 40-50 years old.

No ladders or step stools. You want something, he will climb to get it. At India Crafts.

He never broke a thing!

Hand carved Rajasthani musicians at Sharma Farm.

I am still quite amazed at how much is hand made in India, often with the simplest of hand tools. Just because of that, each and every item is precious. I suppose it won't be long before it all disappears. For now, I am in treasure shopping heaven!

Ladakh Part IV: More Indus Valley Monasteries and Roadsigns

Confluence of Indus and Zanskar Rivers

It was time to leave the festivities of dance at the Lamayura Monastery and head back to Leh. Knowing that we were not in a hurry to get somewhere, we lesisurely drove through the spectacular Indus Valley and stopped along the way to visit three more monasteries.

Rizong Monastery

Okay, I am not sure that I have this monastery labeled correctly. At this point of the trip I stopped taking notes and just enjoyed. However, Rizong Monastery only has 40 monks present. It is considered the "paradise of meditation" and adheres by much stricter rules, like no material possessions (no cell phones I presume). There is also a nunnery of 20 nuns, which we visited. They were busy studying in two rooms, no chairs, only mats and an old blackboard.

Man carrying hay down the mountain

Time and time again I had to pinch myself to remind me that it was truly 2013. I felt like I had gone back in time on so many occasions. Like watching whole families, including children, pound rock by hand into gravel for road work, or men chiseling granite into columns with only two hand tools.

At Liker Monastery (I think)

Liker Monastery is the home to 120 monks and 30 students. I especially enjoyed the drive up to Liker.

We also visited Alchi Monastery which is unusual because is was built in the lowlands, rather on a hillside. It is one of the oldest monasteries, and we enjoyed being present during the prayer time. However, all along the path to the temples were vendors selling all kinds of treasures.  I did manage to find an old conch shell decorated with turquiose and coral. A keepsake for sure.



Here are a few quotes from the incredible road signs that kept us occupied on the long drives through Ladakh:

"God Made Ladakh and he connected it to the rest of the world"

"Failing is not a crime but lack of effort is"

"Self-trust is the essence of heroism"

"The smallest deed is greater than the largest intention"

"It is a nice way to live just taking what nature is willing to give not forcing her hands with harrow and plow"

"A dead end is just a good place to turn around" (my favorite)

"Simplicity is the peak of civilization"

So now you know why I am in love with a place called Ladakh.




 

Ladakh Part III: Lamayura Monastery Mask Festival

Lamayura Monastery: 1100 years old

 

After a day to rest in Leh we set off again on another road trip to a yearly mask dance festival at the Lamayura Monastery. The drive took us through the Indus Valley along the Indus River. Breath taking! About five hours later we were in another world of sacred Tibetan Buddhist celebrations.

We rented a room in a "hotel" that was actually aatached to the monastery. Our room opened up onto a terrace that had a private viewing of all the dancing, and a few visiting young monks. Two older monks lived in huts right next to our room and we could hear them chanting and praying early in the mornings!

Young monk on a terrace



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the next two days we observed these most sacred dancers dressed in monastic silk robes and wearing masks that are only taken out once a year. The masks represent guardian divinities, while the swords and instruments symbolize the elimination of ignorance. The drums drive the demons away.

 

Local villagers

 

 

Besides the honor of observing this yearly festival, I especially enjoyed sitting amongst the local people who came devotedly each day for the entire celebration. Most spun hand-held prayer wheels and turned their prayer beads in their hands while whispering mantras. They are beautiful and dignified people.

 

 

 

Even though it was a very warm and sunny day, most of the local people wore layers of wool clothing and hats.

 

 

 

 

I was deeply touched by the devotion and spirituality of the people. I tried hard to be discreet with my picture taking, and usually always asked first if I could take a photo. There were several professional photographers present sticking their zooming lenses in people's faces. This time I shot from far away.

 

 

Dungchen horns

 

Dungchen horns are huge trumpet-like horns that are usually played in pairs at ceremonies. Their sound has been compared to the wailing of elephants. While we stayed at the monastery, we could hear the horns being played late into the evenings from rooftops.

 

Monk on a cell phone

 



I was always amazed when I saw the younger monks using their cell phones or expensive cameras. Someone explained to me that family members purchase such items to better stay in touch. Seemed uncanny that there even was cell phone capability in these remote areas.

 

Over 300 prayer wheels

 

Valley below Lamayura Monastery

 

Once again, I hated to leave. Decided to take a leisurely trip back to Leh and visit three more monasteries on the way. But really, I just wanted to head into the hills for awhile!