Srinigar, Kashmir

Fishermen in a shakira boat on Dal Lake

Kashmir is one of those magical places that many of my colleagues recommended. However, because of the on-going struggle between Pakistan and India to claim this territory (currently part of India), the area has been off-limits at times to tourists, especially Americans. This fall there has not been any travel warnings, so my good buddies, Kris and Rick, and I made a last minute dash to visit.

Kris on our houseboat owned by Mr. Butt of Butt's Clermont Houseboats

 During the British occupation, the Brits were not allowed to buy or own land. Instead they had local carvers of walnut and cedar wood, build these intricate and fascinating houseboats. There are over 1,200 of these boats still in use today, mostly by tourists (when they come). The "boats" do not go onto the water, but are like large trailers moored to land.

The interior of our houseboat. Pretty comfy.

Rick on the stern next to one of the amazing Kashmiri wood panels. All hand-carved.

Mr. Butt and I

Mr. Butt is the proud owner of this fleet of four houseboats. They were originally bequeathed to his father when the British left. Mr. Butt is now in his 80's and is an icon in the area. He will come and sit for hours to tell the history of Kashmir and of the local arts.

Many famous people have stayed on Mr. Butt's houseboats

Mr. Butt was so excited to share with us all the photos of famous people that have stayed or visited his houseboats. They include Nelson Rockefeller, George Harrison, Ravi Shankar, and most recently, John McCain!

Kris in the Heaven Rose

On our first evening we took a lovely boat ride paddled by a young man out to the lotus gardens. Very dreamy!

My first bouquet of lotus flowers!

Woman paddling with ducks

Sunrise from the deck

Srinigar is 80% Muslim. So it was no surprise to me to hear the "call to prayer" throughout the day and night on loudspeakers. However, I was not prepared for the two hour "sermon" starting at 4:30 a.m.!! So instead of tossing and turning, I used the time to take some early morning shots.

Morning cruise

The next morning Mr. Butt arranged for us to go with Lassa, another Dal Lake icon, to paddle us through the canals and "floating" gardens to Nigeen Lake.

The "lake" people live a simple subsistence life along the waters.

Flower seller

We were not on the lake for more than 15 minutes before this flower seller found us. We tried to explain over and over that we were only in Kashmir for a couple of days and did not want to buy flowers. So then, how about seeds? Of course we bought some! Mine...nasturtium seeds.

Boy dredging up lake plants to use for fertilizer and animal feed

 
The lakes provide a wealth of income for its people. From fish, to fertilizer, to food for animals.

Woman doing laundry

Lakeside homes

Man picking his nets for minnows to dry for the winter

Lassa explaining hydroponic farming..he is floating!

Hydroponic farming is quite an innovation. The local people compact bulrush plants, which grow along the lakes. Then they pile on dredged lake plants to create "raised beds". Melons, squash, etc. are planted seasonally on these floating gardens. The bulrush roots keep the plants watered. This patch was recently harvested of melons. It was about 20 feet long and five feet wide. The owners of the gardens move them during the winter months for protection. Ingenious!

Traveling salesman

This man spotted us in the middle of Nigeen Lake and came paddling quickly. He had three cases of lovely silver jewelry but his prices were way too high so we passed.

My next stay?

Visit to one of several Mughal Gardens

Copper bowls

Man making handle for copper bowl

Copper is used extensively for plates, bowls, cups, and water jugs. Each piece is intricately hammered with traditional designs.

Hammered copper bowl...mine!

Hand hooking a bed cover

I will never ever stop being awed by the arts and craftsmanship in India. When Mr. Butt's son heard that I was interested in textiles, he took us to the old city of Srinigar, through several alleys, up three floors to this barren, dusty,  and dark workshop of three amazing men. Here this man sat  using a needle hook to embroider this gorgeous piece with hand spun wool.

Shelves and shelves and piles and piles...

In the next room was their "storeroom" of goods to be sold in Delhi. As they revealed each piece, we quickly became overwhelmed. Kris and I could have easily spent hours digging through these traditional Kashmiri tapestries. But Rick was getting hungry...We each purchased some pillow covers and one larger bed cover. They agreed to make the backings and deliver them to us by 10:30 the next morning. Incredible India!

Embroidered bed cover

Spinning pashmina wool

The next morning we went to a lovely home where  members of a family took a particular part in creating incredible pashmina shawls. This woman was spinning the finest strands of pashmina goat wool to be used in weaving of the most precious shawls made in the world.

Embroidering with the tiniest of needles

Gorgeous but not in our budgets!

Haircut, shave or massage?

This delightful man showed up at our houseboat, just stood there, and let us read his box. So early in the morning we each got a wonderful head, shoulder and neck massage...$8!

Water lilies everywhere

It was time to head back to Delhi and to the craziness of 18,000,000 people. It is important to point out, though, that the presence of heavily armed military in Kashmir is not pleasant. Entering the airport required five intense security checks.  And, sadly, just three days ago there was another militant attack south of Srinigar...twelve people killed. I feel blessed to have had the opportunity to spend three glorious days in Srinigar. I pray for everyone trying to exist here.