Sri Lanka Part III: Tangalla Beaches and Mulkirigala Rock Temples

Tangalla Beach

After Yala National Park, we headed southwest to Tangalla. This is a less touristy area with small sheltered beaches. Our stay at the Moonstone Villa was just perfect. It is located on the busy main street, but once inside, it is a lovely quiet spot with terraced rooms, swimming pool, and a great cafe. Across the street and down some crumbling steps we found this beach. The water was perfect for bobbing in the surf. But the best part was the tiny Cactus Lounge restaurant. There are only six tables, right off the beach, and the seafood (giant prawns) was the best I had in Sri Lanka! If you want fresh lobster, you have to order it the day before. We wished we had stayed here one more day!

Mulkirigala Rock Temples/Caves

One of the reasons I wanted to stop in Tangalla was to visit these caves. They are located about 15km from Tangalla. It is a peaceful drive through the countryside.

700 steps to get to the caves

There are seven caves built out of a giant granite rock, reaching up from the forest. The caves were originally built beginning in 2 BC.

One of five giant sleeping Buddhas in a cave

Inside one of the caves

The ancient paintings (thousands of years old) that adorn the walls and ceilings are so intact and clear.

More sculptures (behind glass)

The Mulkirigala Rock temples are not full of tourists. In fact the day we were there, there were only 6-10 other people. When you arrive, you enter a little museum where a man speaks in broken English, gives a Buddhist blessing, and then expects a donation. I will take any blessing I receive, so I gave a small donation. The actual ticket office is up one level and costs RS200 ($3). Worth every penny.

Devil mask in Ariyapala Mask Museum

The next day we left for Unawatuna, in search of our friends Kris and Rick. Unfortunately, Kris had left to return to Delhi while Rick was out surveying some land to purchase. Yup, they are now Sri Lanka land owners (a very complicated process). I will be back for sure now!

So we continued onward to the Ariyapala Mask Museum. Although a roadside attraction for tourists, we loved seeing the display of these incredible masks.

The men do the carving

The women do the intricate painting

Stick fishermen

As we traveled up the west coast, we stopped often for sights like this. Some men approached us demanding money for taking photos of the fishermen. When I refused he yelled to them to cover their faces...I have since learned that these "fishermen" might only be looking like they are fishing, making money from the tourists. Find it hard to believe that they would go to that extreme. ??? There are actually real stick fishermen along the coasts.

The real deal...pulling in a net.

 Our last night was at a resort in Katunayaka. Beautiful setting, but a buffet dinner was not what I was looking for! Thankfully our driver had stopped at an amazing seafood restaurant on the way for lunch.

This part of Sri Lanka was quite devastated by the tsunami of 2004. Thousands of people died when the sea mysteriously "disappeared" and locals went looking at the sight, instead of running inland. As Sri Lankans rebuild, there seems to be a thirst for high-end tourism that doesn't quite match the services provided. Still, this place is magical and I would not wait too long to visit, before it is all divided and developed.

Just another Buddha