Sri Lanka: Part I: Many Shades of Green

St. Claire waterfall outside Hatton

During winter break, I decided after spending two weeks at home (Bellingham, WA, USA), I would head to Sri Lanka for a week before heading back to India. What a great idea!

Sri Lanka is an island country at the southern tip of India. Years of war and a recent tsunami (2004), have diverted many tourists from this magical place. Today the tourist industry is alive and well. It is a gorgeous and diverse country, full of history and tradition.

Mahout with young elephant at Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage

After a sleepover in Colombo we met our private driver and headed inland to the hill country. But first I insisted that we stop at the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage. Being rather crazy about elephants, I was in heaven.

When we arrived, one group of elephants was already at the river for their morning bath. Pinnawala is home to about 75 elephants, most of whom were orphaned by accidents. It is the largest herd of captive elephants in the world. Today Pinnawala is also a breeding place for Asian elephants.

Sama had her leg injured by a land mine left over from the war

There are about 50 mahouts (elephant handlers) who care for the elephants. The orphanage was impeccably clean and well-organized. There is $20 entry fee, which I thought was a bit steep, but once inside I was more than happy to pay.  The elephants appeared healthy and well cared for. Few are ever released back into the wild, but sold to temples or private owners (which is somewhat controversial).

Babies playing in  the Maha Oya River

Walking back from the river to the "estate".

The shopkeepers quickly pulled in their racks of items for sale and stepped way back into their shops. One or two of the elephants had chains on their legs because they were "unpredictable". Getting this close to a herd of elephants was more than I could dream of. I told my traveling buddy, Cristi, that I was happy now and could go home. Ha! Little did I know what was ahead...


That afternoon we continued our drive to a small tea plantation town, Hatton City, where we stayed at the lovely Tea Hills Bungalow.

Tea Hills Bungalow

View from bungalow

Bungalows were originally built for the managers of the tea plantations during colonization by England. In fact, the hill country is often referred to as "little England". So many shades of green...

Women picking the tea leaves

Traditionally the women pick the leaves by hand. They place a light bamboo stick on top of the bushes. Only the leaves above the stick can be picked. The men fertilize by hand row by row.

Local tea picker

The tea workers often walk one to two hours to and from the plantations in very steep hilly country. A typical day's earnings is around $3-$4. So, the next time you enjoy a cup of tea, say thank you to these amazing people.

Carrying leaves to the buyer

In the village

From our bungalow we headed out for a walk through the tea fields and into a tiny village.

Shrine in a tree

Sri Lanka is largely Buddhist. However, we were in Tamil country (Hindu). There are many Christians and a growing population of Muslims.

Fetching water

Leaving the hill country

After two days in tea plantation country, our driver led us through valleys and valleys of breath taking vistas. I truly was not expecting such beauty. Onward to Yala National Park in the south!