Sunday, March 4, 2012

Nizamuddin and Sufi Singers

Kris in Nizamuddin alley. Photo taken by Tim Steadman.
 
Entry into the basti of Nizamuddin. Arch is low to remind those entering to bow.










On Friday night a group of us took a walking tour of the neighborhood called Nizamuddin. Nizamuddin is a 12th century village that grew around the shrine of the Sufi saint Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya. Today this mostly Muslim neighborhood is home to over 15,000 residents. It is known for its congested narrow alleys, tombstones, pilgrims, markets, mosques and spiritual music.

Sufism is a form of Islam, but is considered a softer more multi-cultural form. It is a mystical dimension of Islam and worshipers believe that through dancing, singing and prayer they can achieve closeness to God.

 

View from a rooftop.

We were very relieved that we had hired a guide, as we would never have found our way through the maze of alleys and venders selling everything from plastic flip flops to flowers and incense for offerings at the shrine.

Toothbrushes!
Our guide explained that these were a type of stick used for cleaning teeth. Wish I had bought one to try!
Stone carving on one tombstone of a woman.

A mausoleum from the 1500's

 
Kids playing hide-n-seek with us
Man taking picture of us as we took one of him!
Shannon at shrine of Nizamuddin.
Men and women are required to wear head scarves when in the worship area. The women are not allowed into the mosque, and cannot walk in front of any man praying.


Kris, Karen, me, Shannon and Anne. Photo taken by Tim Steadman.


 There were many homeless and disabled people sleeping in every nook and cranny. All people in need who come to this  basti (community) are fed daily. So those who make the pilgrimage often just find a dark alley to call home for a few days or much longer.

"Home"
A group of men who had come to study

The end of our tour ended with listening to a small group of Sufi singers in a small Dargah. Sufi singers have been singing Qawwalis for over 750 years at the main shrine. The songs are designed to raise listeners to a state of haal or spiritual trance. I must admit that I was mesmerized bv this most beautiful singing. 

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