Rishikesh Part II

The Ganges

Sometimes I have to pinch myself to remember what a gift it is to spend time in these most sacred places. 

For day two we decided to venture off on a little hike "down the road" and up a trail to find a waterfall. Whenever you ask directions in India, people simply say something like,"Just a ten minute walk", or "Just around the corner". So the three of us set off on foot on the mountain road in search of the waterfall trail. In distance, the walk was not THAT far, but the winding corners and signs like these tell it all. On our way back, some nice young men offered us a ride and we took it!

Shannon ready for a dip

We made it to the first of the falls but found the trail too washed out by earlier flooding to go any further. So we spent the afternoon soaking in the pools and basking in the fresh mountain air. Such a treat after Delhi!

This is no joke!

As we headed back into town and to a cafe for lunch, this man came up behind us trying to sell his services of an ear cleaning. He kept saying, "Let me just show you how I work." Any service can be had just about anytime. Notice the cotton balls he has tucked behind his ears. I was trying so hard not to laugh, I finally asked him if I could take his picture. He agreed with a smile but wanted to see the photo. He smiled even bigger.

Monkey on suspension bridge

Next post: The Beatles's Ashram!

Rishikesh Part I

Shiva on the Ganges River

We have several three and four-day holidays in our school year. It's a great time to explore places that I have not yet visited. So, off we went to explore Rishikesh, the "Gateway to the Himalayas" and the "World Capital of Yoga". A short 45 minute flight north from Delhi, then an hour drive brought us to a deeply spiritual place for Hindus.

Laxman Jhule suspension bridge across the Ganges

Our little hotel was just up a dirt path from this suspension bridge leading into the heart of Rishikesh. Thousands of Hindus make pilgrimages to Rishikesh to meditate and bathe in the holy Ganges River. Unlike in Varanasi, this part of the river is quite clean, just flowing out of the mountains. River rafting is also a huge draw to this region.

If you look very closely you will see a cow or two on the bridge. They have the right of way!

Simple, clean and cheap!

This hotel was a great find. Freshly made Indian food made on request, and a yoga teacher and massage therapist came daily just for us.

Cristi and Shannon on the roof-top

French press coffee!! Now that is a treat in India. Rishikesh is a place that many westerners come to be trained as yoga and meditation teachers. There was a yoga/meditation/aruyvedic center on every corner. Nothing like at home, however. Most were holes-in-the wall with tangled electrical wires dangling and cow poop on the sidewalks.

Typical yoga "studio"

Hindu temple across the bridge

Cristi and I ventured to the temple one day. Five plus stories of shrines, each with different Hindu deities. Hundreds of different gods! Worshipers would ring a bell when entering the shrine, usually touch part of the god, or leave an offering. Cristi and I decided we really needed to do more studying about Hinduism. Very complex.

The Ganga Aarti

Our first night we joined hundreds of people for the nightly ritual called the Aarti. An aarti is a type of puja, or religious offering to a deity. Singing and lighting of lanterns begin at dusk. The ceremony is in a spirit of humility and gratitude.

Receiving a blessing of light

Meditating

Sadhu

Sadhus are everywhere in Rishikesh. In Hindu, they are considered holy men (and women) who wander in pursuit of moksha (attainment of liberation from the cycle of rebirth)). Sadhus leave behind all material and sexual attachments. They often wear ochre-colored clothing symbolizing sanyasa (renunciation). They usually live in temples, caves and forests. Many sadhus awake at the wee hours of the morning to come to the river to meditate and bathe. During the day, the sadhus were seen sleeping under trees and along alleys.

It is often challenging/impossible to distinguish between true sadhus and street beggars, or drop-out travelers. It is thought that there are 4-5 million sadhus in India and Nepal. 

Sadhus or beggars?

Indian Traditions

I have been so blessed to get to know local families, and to be invited into their lives and celebrations. Last weekend Niraj and his beautiful wife, Guddy, came with their two children to my friend's Kris home for Sunday tea. Being the obnoxious picture taker that I am, I immediately began snapping shots. Guddy disappeared into the bathroom and soon appeared wearing her family jewels, that she had worn when she first met Niraj to consider their arranged marriage. She and Niraj predicted that I would be taking photos and wanted some portraits of her wearing the jewels. The only photo that she has of herself is one I took a few weeks ago.

 

 

Guddy wearing her family jewels

Gold jewelry is like a savings account in India. Gold and gems are highly regarded and are passed down from family to family, and kept in secure lock boxes in a variety of places. I recently discovered a heavy safe in my apartment tucked behind a set of drawers. No way to open it!

Sandita, two years old.

Enough with the photos say the kids!

The red powder (bindi) on Guddy's forehead is a sign that she is married.


Last night I was invited to the first birthday celebration of my assistant's son, Poorvash. I wasn't quite sure what to expect, but being India I knew it would be quite a party! To begin with, nothing much got started until 8:30 pm, followed by dancing, dinner and cake eating.

Poorvash in his sherwani suit

Poorvash with his mother, Aarti, and great-grandmother

Indian boys do not have their hair cut until two years old, at which time it is shaved off. Because their hair is so thick and long, it is often put up in pony tails. Young boys are often dressed like girls before the age of two as well.

More on arranged marriages soon! They are still the norm.

Visitors and Staff Retreat to Neemrana

Doreen and Justine at Hauz Khaz ruins.

It has been great fun to have visitors and share my "home" in Delhi. Justine, my friend Joan's daughter, and Scott, Justine's husband, were here for a very short three days as they traveled throughout India. Justine and Scott have been working for NGO's in Bangladesh, and found Delhi a welcome vacation. After their term ends in Bangladesh in January they plan to relocate to Seattle. Yeah!

Doreen and Scott at Lodhi Gardens

Lodhi Gardens is a wonderful green space in the middle of Delhi. One of the best decisions ever made by the planners of New Delhi was to preserve this green space around the mausolea left by the Lodhi and Sayyid kings. From family picnics to diplomats, this park is a haven in the middle of crazy Delhi.

Humayun's Tomb

Another great site in Delhi that I hadn't gotten around to seeing yet. What a delight! Humayun's Tomb was built to house the grave of the second great Mughal, Humayun. It is said to be the model for the Taj Mahal. Indeed!

Once again the school hosted a staff retreat at Neemrana Fort. Getting there is half the fun. One never knows what you might see...or experience.

Nomads with cattle

Mother and bare-bottomed child

 Saw several young ones being carried on the shoulders of their mothers, all without bottoms or diapers. Just layers of cloths to absorb.

Neemrana Stepwell

I am always in awe at these ruins of ancient water systems in India. Neemrana stepwell  is nine stories deep, with steps leading down most of the way. They were designed so people could access water through every season. Travelers would also congregate at the stepwells to rest and refresh. Many of these stepwells are architectural wonders. Sadly, this one is crumbling, with no apparent signs of restoration.

Kids asking to have their pictures taken. 

Never an absence of treasures to be found

Just another road trip

Traveling in India is always interesting and challenging. Traffic can be stopped for an hour because of herds  of cows, goats, or mules criss-crossing the roads. Keeps me smiling, though!

Back in Delhi

Thali

As hard as it was to leave my family and friends, Delhi does seem like "home" now. The crazy traffic and mobs of people seem normal to me, as well as the occasional cow and monkey. Nice to reconnect with good friends, and get to know the new teachers.

One of our first jaunts was to our favorite spot, Hauz Khaz, a tiny artsy village, once the second city of Delhi. Dinner at our favorite South Indian restaurant.

Dusk at Hauz Khaz ruins

Spent Sunday afternoon meeting my new Nepalese "grandson", Aloak.

Niraj, wife, and baby, Aloak

Niraj is my acupressurist. Aloak's eyes are painted with a mixture of charcoal and oil to make his eyes "bigger". They do  not use diapers, just layers of cloth. Niraj's mother-in-law spends most of her day washing the cloths.

Kris and I have been designated the American grandma's. Okay with me!

My new class of 18 students (can you believe that?) is wonderful. It is going to be a great year!

Summer 2012: From Portugal to Bellingham

The pottery of Portugal

Before heading home to Bellingham, I met my dear college friend, Cheryl, for a sun and seafood respite in Portugal. I had been to Portugal before and knew it was the perfect, easy place to go for restoration before heading home. I refer to Portugal as "Europe lite"; plenty of great food, easy transportation and less expensive than most of Europe.

Common sight in Alfama

Angel mural in Alfama

The colorful doors of Portugal

Cheryl and I in Sintra

Megaliths of Evora

Evora was a new find this time, about 2 hours inland from Lisbon. Went on a tour to view these recently discovered (1960's) megaliths, much older than Stonehedge. Much is being researched about the ancient civilizations that lived in the area and the importance of astrology to their lives.

Salema on the Algarve

Of course, spending time on the beach was a must. What more can I say?


Then the long flight home to Bellingham to spend time with my sweet family.

Gage and Dagan

There is no greater joy than spending time with a grandchild and watching your own "baby" become a loving parent.

Precious Gage

With my sister

My most loving sister flew out for two weeks. We went to the mountains in Leavenworth, Washington and thoroughly relaxed in the clean mountain air.  While we are worlds apart, our ties are very close and deep.

Saying good-bye to my family was quite sad, but I will be home for Christmas!

The Spirituality of India

Buddhist Temple outside Varanasi (Sarnath)

Many people come to India on a spiritual quest. However, that was not my primary reason for coming here. I came for a new and exciting job teaching at the American Embassy School, and out of curiosity for this country that has always intrigued me. Yet, there is no escaping a presence of deep and enduring spirituality in all walks of life, every economic strata, and in everyday occurrences.

Indian people believe that religion, despite the differences in practices and theology, is essential to a family's and the society's well-being. A day does not go by when an ordinary person will share a spiritual lesson or insight.Two days ago I was having lunch with a co-worker, Deepa (born and raised in India). She reminded me that behind a smile needs to be positive thoughts and actions that are synchronized. A great discussion ensued about how to make this happen in our daily lives.Thanks, Deepa.

Shrine along a trail in the Himalayas

I remember in my youth growing up in a very U.S. east coast town with many Italian Catholics. As a Methodist,  I often thought that the little shrines that I encountered  here and there were tacky and intrusive. Now in India, when I pass a place of prayer, I smile and often take the time to send out positive thoughts.

Niraj, cooking up some herbs

Niraj began coming to my home months ago, first to teach yoga, but now to use his homeopathic remedies to soothe aging joints and improve my general well-being. He is from Nepal, but has lived in India for nine years in a one-room apartment with his lovely wife, one year old daughter, and soon new baby. Niraj works at a naturopathic office during the day, but then works late into the evening teaching private yoga and giving treatments. I've rarely seem him rattled or stressed. He loves to do "laughing yoga" and always imparts some words of wisdom. I was complaining to him about being "cheated" by a taxi driver on Monday. He simply looked at me and said, "God sees".

AES sangha group

Early in the year I joined a small sangha group at AES that meets once a week. The group is a mixture of mostly Americans from all religious backgrounds. We practice the breathing and meditation techniques as taught by Thich Nhat Hanh, a Vietnamese Buddhist monk. I always wanted to learn about the benefits of meditation, but never could quite quiet my "monkey brain" for more than a few seconds. Thanks to these wonderful people, I have learned to be calm and quiet for at least an hour a week!

Driven to learn more about breathing and meditation, I signed up for an intensive six-day workshop called The Art of Living Course 1. The Art of Living Foundation is based on the teachings of Sri Sri Ravi Shankar, a universally revered spiritual and humanitarian leader. I was challenged to learn silence in a way that I never knew was possible. Again, an amazing unexpected gift.

Mother and daughter

So as I prepare to leave India for the summer, I want to say thank you to every person who shared  a smile and/or a simple spiritual lesson with me. Blessings abound....