Ladakh Part IV: More Indus Valley Monasteries and Roadsigns

Confluence of Indus and Zanskar Rivers

It was time to leave the festivities of dance at the Lamayura Monastery and head back to Leh. Knowing that we were not in a hurry to get somewhere, we lesisurely drove through the spectacular Indus Valley and stopped along the way to visit three more monasteries.

Rizong Monastery

Okay, I am not sure that I have this monastery labeled correctly. At this point of the trip I stopped taking notes and just enjoyed. However, Rizong Monastery only has 40 monks present. It is considered the "paradise of meditation" and adheres by much stricter rules, like no material possessions (no cell phones I presume). There is also a nunnery of 20 nuns, which we visited. They were busy studying in two rooms, no chairs, only mats and an old blackboard.

Man carrying hay down the mountain

Time and time again I had to pinch myself to remind me that it was truly 2013. I felt like I had gone back in time on so many occasions. Like watching whole families, including children, pound rock by hand into gravel for road work, or men chiseling granite into columns with only two hand tools.

At Liker Monastery (I think)

Liker Monastery is the home to 120 monks and 30 students. I especially enjoyed the drive up to Liker.

We also visited Alchi Monastery which is unusual because is was built in the lowlands, rather on a hillside. It is one of the oldest monasteries, and we enjoyed being present during the prayer time. However, all along the path to the temples were vendors selling all kinds of treasures.  I did manage to find an old conch shell decorated with turquiose and coral. A keepsake for sure.



Here are a few quotes from the incredible road signs that kept us occupied on the long drives through Ladakh:

"God Made Ladakh and he connected it to the rest of the world"

"Failing is not a crime but lack of effort is"

"Self-trust is the essence of heroism"

"The smallest deed is greater than the largest intention"

"It is a nice way to live just taking what nature is willing to give not forcing her hands with harrow and plow"

"A dead end is just a good place to turn around" (my favorite)

"Simplicity is the peak of civilization"

So now you know why I am in love with a place called Ladakh.




 

Ladakh Part III: Lamayura Monastery Mask Festival

Lamayura Monastery: 1100 years old

 

After a day to rest in Leh we set off again on another road trip to a yearly mask dance festival at the Lamayura Monastery. The drive took us through the Indus Valley along the Indus River. Breath taking! About five hours later we were in another world of sacred Tibetan Buddhist celebrations.

We rented a room in a "hotel" that was actually aatached to the monastery. Our room opened up onto a terrace that had a private viewing of all the dancing, and a few visiting young monks. Two older monks lived in huts right next to our room and we could hear them chanting and praying early in the mornings!

Young monk on a terrace



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the next two days we observed these most sacred dancers dressed in monastic silk robes and wearing masks that are only taken out once a year. The masks represent guardian divinities, while the swords and instruments symbolize the elimination of ignorance. The drums drive the demons away.

 

Local villagers

 

 

Besides the honor of observing this yearly festival, I especially enjoyed sitting amongst the local people who came devotedly each day for the entire celebration. Most spun hand-held prayer wheels and turned their prayer beads in their hands while whispering mantras. They are beautiful and dignified people.

 

 

 

Even though it was a very warm and sunny day, most of the local people wore layers of wool clothing and hats.

 

 

 

 

I was deeply touched by the devotion and spirituality of the people. I tried hard to be discreet with my picture taking, and usually always asked first if I could take a photo. There were several professional photographers present sticking their zooming lenses in people's faces. This time I shot from far away.

 

 

Dungchen horns

 

Dungchen horns are huge trumpet-like horns that are usually played in pairs at ceremonies. Their sound has been compared to the wailing of elephants. While we stayed at the monastery, we could hear the horns being played late into the evenings from rooftops.

 

Monk on a cell phone

 



I was always amazed when I saw the younger monks using their cell phones or expensive cameras. Someone explained to me that family members purchase such items to better stay in touch. Seemed uncanny that there even was cell phone capability in these remote areas.

 

Over 300 prayer wheels

 

Valley below Lamayura Monastery

 

Once again, I hated to leave. Decided to take a leisurely trip back to Leh and visit three more monasteries on the way. But really, I just wanted to head into the hills for awhile!

 

 

Ladakh Part II- Hundar and Nubra Valleys

On the road to Hundar Valley

Getting most anywhere in Ladakh requires long and treacherous drives. Permits need to be secured for each regionas there are military check points along the way. Thankfully our hotel and driver took care of all the details. Still, the drives were CRAZY!

The "road"

Our driver was amazing. He said he does this trip twice a week all year long. Ever watch "Ice Truckers"? This pass was featured in one of the episodes.  It was harrowing enough in June, let alone in January!

Khardung Pass: 18,380 ft

It was a loooong  drive to the pass, with twists and turns and wrecks of trucks and buses over the cliffsides.  Our driver suggested we all get out and have a cup of tea. I barely made it to the tea house and back. Cristi went to to use the "ice toilet" and chose a snowy hole instead. I read a sign that said there is an annual running marathon over the pass each year!  Although Khardung Pass is promoted as the highest passable road in the world, new GPS systems have actually found another pass that is slightly higher. Still, this elevation is the same as Base Camp for Mt. Everest.

No helmets!



 

Hundar Valley

Someone once said, "The fun is in the journey". In this case, the journey was well worth the ride. The Hundar Valley is a peaceful green valley at the end of the road. The China/Tibetan border is close by. Until 2010, Hundar was as far as most people could travel. Now the road has opened another 20km but we were unable to go any further beause of permits. We were plenty happy to stay put and enjoy this serene valley.

Diskit Gompa

This monastery was my favorite. It stands atop a hill overlooking the Shayok River in the town of Diskit. Inside the prayer hall are fierce proctector deity masks, only taken out once a year for a special festival.

Maittreya Buddha

This Buddha was completed in 2010. It faces down the Shyok River towards Pakistan. It has three functions; to protect Diskit Village, prevent further war with Pakistan, and to promote world peace. I found it to be a most mezmerizing place to gaze.


Monk explaining the construction of the Buddha to our driver


 

Our abode

Tent stays are quite popular when traveling in India. They even have attached flush toilets and showers heated by the sun. Inside were pink calico quilts and walls. All meals included.Very comfy!



Sand Dunes

One of the reasons that we wanted to come to Hundar was because of the sand dune desert and Bactrian camels. Brilliant find.

Nice do!

 

Bactrian camels have two humps and are a rarer species. They have a tolerance for cold, drought and high altitudes. They were used for caravaning along the Silk Road. Today there are only about 800 in the wild and are listed as critically endangered.

Our camel guide

Of course we had to do the touristy thing and take a ride through the sand dunes. We hired this guide, who led our camels the entire way. If he let go of them they immediately flopped on their knees and would try to roll us off.  I was rather hoping for more of a mini-trek, but after only one hour my thighs and butt were screaming.

Woman heading home

The village of Hundar is lovely. We walked many stone paths leading to luschious organic gardens where the whole family and neighbors worked together. One of my amazements was the intricate and well-planned irrigation systems. The field stone fences and homes were storybook-like.

Local boy climbing a fence

"Juley" is the greeting for hello, goodbye and thank you in Ladakhi. Everyone greets you with "juley" and with great grins.

Meditation caves and stupas



From our tent site we could see the ruins of what appeared to be the Hundar Gompa. These meditation caves and stupas lined the hillside. Were they still being used?

 

On our last evening in Hundar we walked through the village again and one particular stony path beckoned us. It was getting near dusk, but we decided to go for it. It was the best surprise of our trip.

 

 



Etched stones

All along the path we came upon thousands of intricately etched stones with prayers and mantras engraved. Who carved the stones and why are they so strategically placed? As we walked further up the path we came to stone huts and meticulous trails heading up the mountain. Suddenly we noticed one hut with electricity. Did monks still live here?

Heading up the path

As it was getting dark, we made the decision reluctantly to head back to our tent. As we passed one of the old stone huts, an elderly monk came out. He made a gesture that we were unclear about, then noticed he was holding up a giant skeleton key. Quickly we realized that he was inviting us into the temple.

Monk with key to the ancient temple



We were truly in awe of this gift. The monk led us through a new construction site, then bent way down to open a narrow door that led to a prayer hall with oil lamps burning. It took a few seconds before our eyes focused and we saw the magnificent huge staue of Chamba. I was so touched by his generosity, that tears welled up. Outside we took photos and then I asked him how long he had lived at this gompa. He quickly said, "My whole life."It does not appear as if the monastery is currently functioning, except for a handful of monks who live and caretake the ruins and temple. Few people spoke English in the village so we never got much info.

Copper prayer wheel

All throughout the village there were magnificent prayer wheels that we could hear all day long, as the bells rang as they were turned. I especially liked this simple copper one.

 

We were truly sorry that we had not booked one or two more nights in Hundar just to take in the serenity of the valley and its people. The next day we visited Nubra Valley on the other side of the river. It was also lovely, but not nearly as peaceful as Hundar. Then the long windy drive back to Leh!



Ladakh Part 1

Top of the World!

Ladakh is a region of northern India that borders Tibet, China and Pakistan. Flying  into the main "city" of Leh was ethereal. The Kulan and Himalayan mountain ranges took my breath away. When our airplane began to descend I felt as if I could reach out and touch a peak. Some of the most skilled pilots in the world fly these routes.



Our driver, visiting with a monk and fellow guide.

Ladakh is a high altitude desert with elevations averaging around 10,000 ft. When we arrived at our hotel in Leh, the manager greeted us with tea and insisted that we sit and rest for several hours. Altitude sickness is real and can be deadly. It can take up to one to two days to begin to acclimate. Later that evening Cristi, my traveling companion, and I decided to take a very short walk down the street. Sure enough, each step was laborious. Felt like a heavy weights were in my shoes. Each day we became stronger and stronger until we set off for the 18,000ft. pass.

Thiksey Monastery

 Day 2 we hired a driver to take us on a half-day tour of some local monasteries. The people of Ladakh, or "little Tibet,"are 80% Tibetan Buddhist, with the remainder mostly Shia Muslims and Hindus. Many of the monasteries are still the training places for Buddhist monks and nuns. I was told that most Buddhist families have one son or daughter who join the monastic life. It is thought to bring great honor and karma to such families. In turn, the families help to support the monasteries through donations of money and work.

Maitreya Buddha (future Buddha)

 Inside every temple is an amazing Buddha. This Buddha was inside the Thiksey Monastery. It was constructed in the 1970's to commemorate the visit of the Dalai Lama. It is 49 feet tall!

Monks gazing at the mountains, as they must do daily.

I must say that I am quite in awe of the  monastic life. The commitment to study, pray,  and meditate for a life time (and more?) is bewildering. There are moments that I think I may have missed my calling...fleeting moments...

Prayer Wheel

Prayer wheels are on every corner, much like coffee shops in the Pacific Northwest. Each wheel is filled with scrolls of mantras. As you pass, you turn the wheel in a clockwise manner and repeat the mantra, "Om Mani Padme Hum" (loosely translated as "the jewel is in the lotus"). Prayer wheels are used to gather wisdom, good karma and to purify oneself. I was deeply touched by the notion that by simply turning the wheel, the intent is to send prayers out to the world/universe.

More Prayer Wheels

The wheels spin on a spindle and can be made from metal, wood, stone, leather or coarse cotton. They can also be powered by wing, water or by a butter lamp.

Hand held prayer wheel



Stupas or chortens

Stupas or chortens hold Buddhist relics, typically ashes of monks. They are also used as places of meditation.



A valley of stupas

After two days in Leh, rested and acclimated, we were ready to head off to the Hundar and Nuber Valleys and the famous "highest road in the world"