Sunday, December 2, 2012

Pushkar Camel Fair

Camel and cart

When I first heard about the Pushkar Camel Fair from a student last year, I knew it was a must-see. I was right! This year the full-moon in November (necessary for this festival) landed on our 4-day Thanksgiving break. So dozens of AES teachers and families booked their train tickets in the summer for this outrageous celebration.




Camel and horse traders come from all over the desert to sell, race and decorate their livestock. There were over 20,000 camels at the fair. My favorite time was roaming amongst the camels and herders at sunset and early morning (well, not that early). I had always been told that camels can be rather nasty; spitting, biting and head butting. I found them to be quite gentle, unless spooked. I walked in and around the camels never feeling afraid. The nomads tending their animals were equally friendly.

Horse trader
Boy riding camel through the streets
Besides coming to sell and trade livestock, the traders from all over Rajasthan participated in camel races, camel and horse dancing, decorating, etc. The carnival-like atmosphere is so colorful that all I wanted to do was to sit and take pictures. Which is exactly what many professional photgraphers do, coming from all over the world for this spectacle. 

Woman selling blankets.
Young girls selling cook ware.



  
Dancing horse
The first days of the fair are mostly centered around the animals. The second part is for a pilgrimage to the holy waters of Pushkar Lake, where thousands and thousands of people come to do pujas (prayers) and bathe in the lake. Pushkar is in the top five places for pilgrimage by Hindus.

Tight-rope dancing girl
Some of the sideshows were quite amazing, but wreaking of "child labor". Still, I couldn't keep my eyes from watching. 

Woman collecting camel dung
The women and children (girls) rolled the cow dung by hand into little balls. Then the women carried them in large bowls on their heads to a place to make patties to dry for fuel. This woman smiled the whole time.

Doing laundry
As I walked through the narrow alleys of the town, a simple life of daily routines evolved. Several members of a family live in these one-room brick huts, cooking and cleaning on the sidewalks. Most were very willing for me to take photos and few asked for money.

Necklaces anyone?
There were hawkers everywhere who were very persistent. My friend, Kris, decided to buy some of these necklaces to take home to resell at a local shop. After buying 20  or so, she thought they would leave her alone. Nope. Every time they saw her they followed and followed and followed...

Kris with newly purchased necklaces. 

Eager to be photographed
I always ask (usually) if I can take someone's picture. Most say yes as long as they can see the picture immediately afterwards. They grin and laugh when seeing themselves.

"Spotted" horse
I cracked up when I saw this painted "spotted" horse.

Pointed-ear pony
View from my roof-top hotel room
We stayed in the Everest Hotel, a delightful and colorful small hotel near the center of town. Very clean, roof-top restaurant, and friendly young staff. Loved waking up to the sounds of of kids flying kites. However, the monkeys liked hanging out on my terrace too.

Holy men arriving for the religious celebration
Our last day in Pushkar was transformed into saffron-colored streams of worshipers. The streets were impassable, so I plunked myself down in the camel stadium and shot away. I would definitely get to the fair in the first part of the week. 

Me and my guy
The Pushkar Camel Fair is a must-see experience in India. It makes me want to wander further west into the desert...

How I felt at the end!