Gond Artists

This week a visiting artist, Sunil Kumar Dhurvey from a tribal village in central India, taught the fifth graders the history and techniques of Gond Art. Traditionally this form of art was painted on the exterior of buildings by the women. So many people from around the world loved the artwork, that artists like Sunil and his family began painting on paper and canvas to sell.

Sunil demonstrated how the paints were originally made from plants and flowers.Today he uses acrylic paints and special "dot" pens.

First an outline of an animal or plant is drawn, then painted with solid acrylic paints. I was amazed at how both Sunil and his wife simply sat on the floor or on a short stool to do their work.

Sunil added fine dot and scallop details with his pens. This tiger painting was inspired by masked dancers at a traditional wedding party in his village. I purchased this piece, along with 3 others, for 500 Rs each ($10 each!).

 

Another favorite

It is curious how similar the style of art is amongst native people in places like Mexico and Australia.

Sunil's wife was adorned right down to the toes! It was a pleasure to spend time with these humble artists, whose craft has spanned generations.

Ranthambhore National Park with 120 Fifth Graders!

At 6:30 A.M. on Wednesday, 120 fifth graders and over 30 adults boarded two sleeper coaches for Ranthambhore National Park, which is located in Rajesthan nearly 450 km southwest of Delhi. Getting safely onto the train amidst thousands of milling travelers at this wee hour in the morning was quite challenging. Although you can get most anywhere by train in India, the lack of infrastructure, including sidewalks, signage, and other usable facilities (toilets) makes traveling by train difficult at best.

We traveled for nearly six hours through rural India. I wonder if I will ever stop being amazed by the women working in the fields clothed in shimmering sarees, squatting and digging with their hands. Camels pull carts carrying everything from bricks to crates of guavas. Men using bare feet to stand on wooden handles to start a pump. Green fields all planted, looking very over worked.

Group of women catching a ride on a camel cart.

Once we arrived in the town of Ranthambhore, we were greeted by a squad of cantor drivers and guides to take us to our hotels.

There was very little down time before we jumped onto our designated cantors and were off for a hike through the 1,000 year old remains of the Ranthambhore Fort. The history of this fort is still not clear, but it certainly was the home of mighty kings and warring factions. Eventually it became the hunting grounds for the King of Jaipur. Royals from all over the world, including Queen Elizabeth II, came here to "bag" a tiger or leopard until it was finally ended in 1970.

One of the entry gates into the fort.

                                    

Another entry point. Stones were thrown at this figure (forgot who) before entering.

Langur monkeys are over-running the fort.

View from the fort. Tiger habitat!

A holy man coming down from the Wednesday pilgrimage to the Ganesh Temple.

Day II:  Awoke and boarded the cantors for our first game drive in the park. Each cantor is given a specific zone to be in so that one area is not over crowded. Our group drew Zone 4, a rugged terrain through hills and riverbeds. Our guard almost immediately spotted fresh tiger marks.

Tiger tracks

We saw several species of birds, huge 8-10 ft crocodiles, several Sambar deer (tiger's favorite), antelope, but no tiger. I was quite content at the time we spent in the forest until we returned to our hotel to learn that three of the cantors had spotted 2-3 tigers! This was quite amazing as there are only about 40 tigers left in the park. More on that later...

Sambar deer. The tiger's favorite meal.

Reflection of two kingfishers in croc lake.

Each student chose an afternoon activity from visiting a village, time with a local artist, birdwatching, etc. My group went to an organic farm using solar energy and a methane conversion process. It was a lovely, simple reprieve from the excitement  of travel and being on a safari. While what I saw was not revolutionary by American standards, it was one of the first farms of its kind in Rajesthan. We all came away with organic guavas, cucumbers and beautiful flowers.

A giant banyan tree creating an arch into the park.

Safari Number II: A quick lunch and then back onto the cantors for another game drive into the park. There are only two times/day for the park permits; early morning and late afternoon/early evening. This time we were given Zone 2 where a young female tiger was spotted in the morning. Again, I told the kids that we would be searching for other park species and not to count on seeing a tiger. I have heard that many many people come from all over the world and never see a tiger here. 

We lucked out and drew the best park guide available. Himmat knows the park inside and out and can talk in depth about every species of plant and animal. He has been researching animal and plant life in the park for many years. Just having him as our guide was rewarding enough. Along the way we saw wild boar, serpent eagles, owls, leopard tracks, but no tiger. 

Wild boar

Pond heron

Owl

By this time the kids and I were a little ragged, cold and hungry. We knew another day was just about over. The guide told the driver to turn back. Just as we were turning the last corner out of the park our guide noticed several cantors waving us over. There in the bush was a very frightened Sambar deer, frozen in panic. A tiger was sure to be near. We waited and waited and waited. Then there she was right in front of our cantor!!

T-17 stalking the Sambar oblivious to our presence.

 

 

 

 

 

The feeling of seeing this magnificent creature brought me to tears. There are so few left in the wild.

That day all 120 students saw a tiger! 

 

Day III: Up bright and early again at the crack of dawn for one last game drive. When we got to our cantor I was given a choice of going to Zone 3, the lake region, or Zone 6, a more rugged trip. I opted for the  lakes, as I personally wanted an easier trip just to enjoy the last day. Afterall, we had seen a tiger and were quite satisfied. 

 

We hadn't even been out for 30 minutes when another guide shared a sighting. Quickly our driver turned around and headed to a lovely open meadow. There she was again, T-17, basking in the early morning light. This time we were able to just sit and watch her yawn, stretch and amble up for the day's hunt. We were the only school cantor there and were feeling mighty proud. 

T-17 enjoying the morning

 

 

 

T-17 heading into the wetlands

The guides on all 5 cantors gave her plenty of space but followed her for over an hour. She disappeared into the marshy bush, and later appeared wading a lake toward an island refuge. The langurs and birds squawked to warn the other creatures along her path. It was a remarkable morning and my thoughts about how many of these tigers are killed through poaching (for their skins and parts for Chinese medicine), and poisoned by farmers makes my head spin. Even our intrusion into their habitat makes me uncomfortable. However, through the education of Project Tiger, perhaps today's kids can do much more to protect them. 

Our guide, Himmat Shekhawat, and Indian Studies teacher at AES, Hema Meira.

It's people like Himmat and Hema, who passionately work for Project Tiger, that hopefully my grandson, Gage, will be able to come to India to see the tigers.